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Thank you 👍

Completely agree. It's more than good enough for the home user, and it does a better job than no chain checker at all. I think it's money well spent. 👍

Contact Point…. A much better name for it, make more sense than Free Stroke!!!! Your frustration isn’t exclusive to SRAM, they all suffer from it. Some models, especially the cheaper/earlier ones have poor modulation, whereby the movement of the lever is equal at the pad. Later/better versions have increased modulation where the pad moves much further, and therefore lifts it well clear of the pad. All you can do is keep it all well tuned and cleaned in order to reduce the issue. My disc rubbing video may give you some tips.

No problem 👍

SuperTeam……. Watch this space!

@@ribblevalleycyclist I look forward to it.

@@shepshape2585 Doing a few maintenance videos, as I'm a little concerned it's all product reviews at the moment. But they're a good looking set of wheels, and I'm looking forward to having a closer look at them.

Hi Antony, That coffee cup..... Yeah, I noticed that in the edit. Thought to myself, well that looks a bit silly! Maybe I could make a feature with the cup jumping around from shot to shot 🤣. ASMR..... wasn't actually aware of it until now. Just watched a short video on it. It's actually an interesting concept, and makes the whole experience more realistic for the viewer.

Thanks 👍

Glad you enjoyed it!

Thanks, do worry how I come across 🫤

Get them bled first, then check the lever setup 👍

It can make all the difference 👍

The hat!!! 👍

@@ribblevalleycyclist as in I tip my hat 😁 great tip thank you 👍🏻

@@plumbgray Don’t worry, I knew what you meant. Always good to get the 🎩 👍

And this is why I make these videos. Thanks for letting me know it was useful to you 👍

Glad you liked it. Feels great to be back in the workshop doing how-to videos. Feels like I’ve done nothing but reviews recently 😕

Glad it was helpful!

It's obvious when you think about it. After all, we wouldn't fit a new rim brake cable, with the barrel adjuster wound all the way out now would we!!! 🤣

Can probably fudge (adjust) freestroke by manually increasing/decreasing the brake pad gap and then bleeding. It can be tricky to get right, but it should work if you get the spacing (spacer) right.

It does help. However, a well maintained 105 system works very well. I still use 105 7000, and it's great.

Good suggestion. Some also apply a small amount of pressure to the fluid via the bleed syringe before closing the bleed nipple off.

@@ribblevalleycyclist Agree completely.....

@@ribblevalleycyclist perhaps subject for your next video 😁😁😁😁

Glad you liked it, thanks 👍

Glad you liked it. No, they're crushed on, so they won't come off...... many have tried before you!!! You'll need a new olive and barb for each end.

Thank you, Nico, will grab a coffee when I'm out on the bike 👍☕️

You're welcome, Dave 👍

You're welcome, @MagicshineLights. Got your SEEMEE 508 radar tail light on the bike at the moment. Giving it a good old test....... Looking good so far!!

Glad it was helpful! Coat hanger...... I actually laughed out load 🤣. Just gutted I didn't think of that one!!

Hi Jonny, It's a good point you make and a fair question. One that I too first asked when I say them. They're not the only manufacturer doing this nowadays. The VONOA spoke will handle 3000n. Combine that with the reinforced carbon spoke track within the rim, and there is more than enough strength.

I'm liking what I see so far.

They do. And a DT Swiss hub, which is always a bonus.

Hi ToasTbrouT, I'm using the bike that this is on, more than my others right now, and I've been very impressed with it. I'm going to do a follow up video saying that, but I've just not had the time.

Hi John, Thanks, glad you enjoyed it. The bearings are a generic size, and can be easily purchased in either the same ceramic, or in a cheaper steel option. The internal hub axle isn't available as a spare part, but you will only have an issue with it, if you have a worn bearing that isn't addresses., as the internal axle will only see excessive wear if the bearing stops turning. Hope that info helps 👍 Jon

Thanks, Bud👍 Looking forward to getting them on the bike

Hi Stein, Good question. The rim has a reinforced carbon layer running the full internal circumference of the wheel, this gives the reinforcement needed. The best thing to make spoke nipples out of is brass, but the problem with that is weights and cost. So aluminium nipples are used. The problem there is, you've got steel going into aluminium in a wet environment, so it's inviting galvanic corrosion. No manufacturer uses brass nipples, so they're all guilty of it. The way around the issue is carbon spokes, which is what has been used in my second wheel video.

@@ribblevalleycyclist Thanks!

Glad you liked it! 👍

Thanks, Mischa. Will grab a coffee while I'm out testing the wheels 👍☕️

@@ribblevalleycyclist I am curious about your test result. Have a good and safe ride.

Just tracked the tyres from Italy….. another week to wait 😕

They're both built very well. This one has superior components, so is technically the better wheel. However, the ICAN is put together as well, and is a lot cheaper!

Well, the last wheelset that I review may just give you what you want 😉

@@ribblevalleycyclist Have you posted this review yet?

No, not yet. Will be in a few weeks.

It is a real stunner. It’s due to come back onto the channel, to have a set of fancy deep carbon rims fitted. I do hope that bar tape has been looked after!!!

Agreed, the hardware is a little different, but the principle is exactly the same. Glad it helped 👍

The smaller machines can give a better clean on chains, because they have a higher watt per litre output. The trouble is, the 3 litre machines will struggle to accept any cassette larger than a 28, and 30 is the new norm nowadays. If you're cleaning just chains, 3 litre, but a 6 litre will give you a lot more flexibility in what you can fit in. A 10 litre is a nice to have, but it's a big thing, that takes up a lot of workshop space. Hope that helps.

​@@ribblevalleycyclistDo you recommend to use it to clean a chain before re-wax it? And the cassette? Today a pour boiled water on the chain, takes some time to make in clean.

@johanpersson6706 Yes. This guy is well worth a watch when it comes to cleaning for waxing: ruclips.net/video/Fp7pTrqrfNA/видео.htmlsi=VSzHF2wHbmdMq_F2

Glad you liked it. Yes, you need an iPhone to use the Knog Scout. But I'd keep your eye out, because I imagine an Android one will follow from someone pretty soon.

No

You’re welcome 👍

I agree with you Richard, it wasn't a fair test. Instead of using the one cleaning agent with the Park Tool CM-5.3, I used 3, two of them very powerful, and a lot more powerful than Park Tool recommends. Oh, and I did 90 passes, rather than the recommended 30! Yes, I allowed plenty of time to soak when using the jar. Because that is the benefit of using a jar. Yes, I used more fluid in the jar, than in the Park Tool scrubber. Because that is the benefit of using a jar. I went above and beyond with the Park Tool scrubber, using a process that went above and beyond what the manufacturer recommends. Agreed, the CM-5.3 did well, and I said that in the video, but you cannot ignore the fact that the jar removed dirt that the CM-5.3 had left behind. The Park Tool CM-5.3 is a convenient tool that does a pretty good job, but a jar will do a better job, with a lot less mucking about. The CM-5.3 is Park's No2 selling product for the simple fact that people either don't want to, or aren't confident/equipped in taking a chain off. And anyway, it does clean the chain, so that'll do, right?. There is a very good reason you will see chains soaking in jars in a bike shop. Do you own a Park Tool chain scrubber by any chance?

@@ribblevalleycyclist Thanks very much for replying. I agree, I watched the video again and you did go above and beyond with the Park Tool. To be absolutely fair maybe you could have used the same type of fluid in both tests and the same quantity of fluid in both tests and when doing the Park Tool test, maybe you could have left the fluid to work on the chain for the same amount of time. All I can say is that I have the Muc-Off machine and was about to chuck it out after watching your video but decided to give it one last chance, this time making two generous applications with Muc-Off degreaser, allowing a soak time between applications. then running a strong detergent through the machine and then two or three changes of water for rinsing. My chain came out absolutely spotless inside and out so I think I will probably stick with this method for the time being, but I've no doubt that the jam jar method would be just as effective and that a lot of people would find it easier than faffing about with these silly machines. It's a great video, very worthwhile, and thank you very much for doing it.